Hermine by Parfums Weil was launched in 1927, a time of significant cultural and social change. The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, were characterized by a dynamic shift in lifestyle, fashion, and attitudes. This era saw the rise of jazz music, flapper culture, and a general sense of liberation and modernity following the end of World War I. Women were gaining more freedom and independence, reflected in their bolder fashion choices and the embrace of new beauty standards. It was in this vibrant and transformative period that Hermine made its debut, capturing the spirit of the age with its exotic and luxurious composition.
Parfums Weil chose the name "Hermine" for their newest fragrance to evoke the elegance and purity associated with the ermine, a small mammal known for its pristine white fur. The French word "hermine" translates to "ermine" in English. Historically, the ermine has been a symbol of purity and virginity, particularly in art and heraldry. The legend of the ermine, which would rather face death than soil its immaculate coat, underscored its representation of unblemished purity and noble character. This symbolism made "Hermine" an appropriate and evocative name for a perfume, suggesting a fragrance that embodies both luxury and a sense of pristine beauty.
The choice of the name "Hermine" also aligned perfectly with Parfums Weil's heritage as a brand originally renowned for their exquisite fur garments. By naming the perfume after such an elegant and pure fur, Weil continued their tradition of linking their fragrances to the luxurious world of fur fashion. Hermine was designed to be worn with ermine furs, enhancing the wearer’s experience by complementing the tactile luxury of the fur with an equally opulent scent.
Women who related to a perfume called "Hermine" were likely those who appreciated both the luxurious and the symbolic aspects of their personal accessories. They were women who valued purity, elegance, and an element of sophistication in their lifestyle. For them, wearing Hermine was more than just applying a fragrance—it was about embodying the qualities that the perfume represented. These women would respond to Hermine with a sense of reverence and delight, finding in its scent a reflection of their own ideals of beauty and refinement.
The word "Hermine" evokes images of untouched snow, regal courts, and timeless beauty. It conjures feelings of nostalgia for a time when elegance and purity were held in the highest regard. The fragrance itself, heavy with sweet tropical flowers of the Pacific Isles and a green chypre accord, would transport the wearer to exotic locales, adding a touch of adventure to the sense of pristine luxury. The combination of these elements made Hermine not just a perfume, but a symbol of the wearer’s connection to both the natural world's beauty and the refined sophistication of high fashion.
Origins:
Parfums Weil traces its origins back to 1892 when the Weil brothers—Marcel, Jacques, and Alfred—established their first boutique at 4 rue Sainte-Anne in Paris under the name Les Fourrures Weil. Initially renowned for their exquisite fur garments, the brothers quickly garnered a reputation for unparalleled quality and elegance. Their craftsmanship attracted a discerning clientele, solidifying the Weil name as synonymous with opulence and sophistication in the fashion world.
By 1927, leveraging their established reputation and the evolving trends in fashion, the Weil brothers made a strategic decision to diversify their offerings. They formally introduced fragrances under the brand Parfums Weil, marking a pivotal expansion beyond their core fur business. These perfumes were innovatively designed to be worn specifically on furs, enhancing the sensory experience of their luxurious garments. This pioneering approach distinguished Parfums Weil in the competitive perfume market, as their scents were meticulously crafted to complement the texture and warmth of fur, creating a harmonious fusion of fragrance and fashion.
The introduction of perfumes represented a significant evolution for Parfums Weil, seamlessly merging their expertise in fur craftsmanship with the artistry of perfumery. This strategic move not only broadened their appeal but also solidified their position as innovators in creating scented accessories for fur garments. It resonated deeply with the refined tastes of their clientele, establishing Parfums Weil as leaders in luxury goods that celebrated both sensory elegance and tactile luxury.
Hermine:
Among the initial offerings, the fragrances bore names inspired by the luxurious furs they accompanied. One such notable perfume was Hermine, aptly named after the luxurious ermine fur, it was a heady tropical floral perfume by Parfums Weil that evoked the allure of far-off exotic locales. With its rich and intoxicating blend of notes, Hermine transported the wearer to a world of lush, fragrant blooms and warm, inviting landscapes. The perfume opened with the sweet and opulent scents of jasmine and rose, immediately captivating the senses with their timeless elegance.
Magnolia added a creamy, velvety touch to the heart of the fragrance, harmonizing beautifully with the bright and zesty hint of orange. As the scent developed, the warmth of ambergris emerged, providing a subtle, oceanic depth that was both mysterious and alluring. The base notes of musk and tonka bean added a sensual, grounding quality to the perfume, creating a lingering, unforgettable trail.
This bold and memorable tropical floral blend was designed to stand out, perfectly complementing the pristine white fur of ermine. The luxurious fragrance mirrored the sophistication and elegance of the fur, making it an ideal choice for those who sought a scent that was both distinctive and refined. Hermine by Parfums Weil celebrated the beauty of exotic flowers and the richness of natural materials, offering a sensory experience that was as enchanting as it was opulent.
Created by Firmenich's master perfumer Claude Fraysse and his daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, Zibeline epitomized the Weil tradition of excellence and innovation in perfumery. Its creation underscored Parfums Weil's commitment to marrying the sensory pleasures of fragrance with the tactile allure of fine furs, further solidifying their unique niche in the luxury market.
The Ermine:
The winter ermine, with its pristine white fur, has long been a symbol of purity and virginity in art and culture. This association dates back to the Renaissance era, where legends told of the ermine's unwavering dedication to maintaining the purity of its coat. It was believed that an ermine would rather die than allow its immaculate fur to be soiled. According to these legends, when pursued by hunters, the ermine would turn back and surrender rather than risk tarnishing its white coat. This act of choosing death over impurity underscored the animal's emblematic representation of unblemished purity.
One notable depiction of this legend is found in Henry Peacham's Emblem 75, which portrays an ermine pursued by a hunter and two hounds. Titled "Cui candor morte redemptus," or "Purity bought with his own death," Peacham's emblem underscores the ermine's symbolic significance. He extols the ermine's example, urging men and women to emulate this legendary creature by keeping their minds and consciences as pure as the ermine keeps its fur. This message resonated during the Renaissance, a time when symbolism in art and literature was richly woven with moral and ethical teachings.
In addition to its Western symbolic meanings, the ermine holds a special place in Japanese culture as well. Known for its adorable appearance and somewhat elusive nature, the ermine is considered a symbol of good luck in some areas of Japan. This cultural reverence adds another layer to the ermine's rich tapestry of symbolic associations, blending notions of purity, virtue, and fortune.
The use of ermine fur in art and fashion, therefore, carries deep connotations of these values. Parfums Weil's Hermine perfume, named after this esteemed animal, captures the essence of the ermine's symbolic purity and luxury. The fragrance, with its heady tropical floral notes of jasmine, rose, magnolia, and orange, complemented by the warmth of ambergris, musk, and tonka bean, mirrors the elegance and refinement associated with the ermine. Just as the ermine's white coat was revered and protected, the fragrance envelops the wearer in an aura of sophistication and timeless beauty.
Fragrance Composition:
Hermine was intended to symbolize tenderness and virginity.
So what does it smell like? It was heavy with the sweet, tropical flowers of the Pacific Isles. Described as a sweet, floral, with a green chypre accord.
- Top notes: magnolia, orange, bergamot, galbanum, gardenia, tiare, coconut, frangipani
- Middle notes: attar of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, hibiscus, orchid
- Base notes: patchouli, musk, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver
In a 1930 article, the distinction between perfumes used on sable and ermine fur is described in terms of their composition and character. The perfume used on sable fur is noted to be rich and evocative, carrying heavy notes reminiscent of sandalwood. This choice of fragrance aligns with the luxurious and sophisticated nature of sable fur, enhancing its opulent appeal with deep, woody undertones that add to its allure and elegance.
On the other hand, the perfume intended for ermine fur is described as lighter in comparison. It is noted to include a hint of attar of roses, a fragrant essential oil derived from rose petals. This lighter composition aims to complement the delicate and pristine quality of ermine fur, enhancing its natural beauty with floral notes that evoke freshness and purity. The use of attar of roses underscores the fur's symbolism of purity and virginity, aligning with cultural associations that have long portrayed ermine fur as a symbol of grace and innocence.
These nuanced choices in perfume compositions highlight the meticulous attention to detail in fur care and maintenance during this era, where fragrances were carefully selected to not only preserve but also enhance the luxurious qualities of fur garments, ensuring they remained both aesthetically pleasing and evocative of sophistication and refinement.
Scent Story:
In the lavish Weil Fur Salon in 1927, the atmosphere was charged with anticipation. The space reserved for the display of their latest creation, the "Hermine" fragrance, was nothing short of a tropical paradise. Fresh gardenias, tuberoses, hibiscus, palm trees, and orchids adorned the room, their intoxicating scents mingling in the air, creating a heady, lush ambiance. Luxurious ermine stoles, muffs, hats, and coats were elegantly draped on models who glided through the salon, their pristine white fur garments complementing the exotic floral display.
As I entered, the rich aroma of magnolia, orange, bergamot, galbanum, gardenia, tiare, coconut, and frangipani filled the air, creating an immediate sense of opulence and warmth. The top notes were bright and fresh, yet carried an exotic sweetness that was unmistakably tropical. The smell was so vivid that I could almost taste the sweet nectar of these blooms, mingling with the subtle zest of citrus.
The president of Parfums Weil, standing in front of an elaborate display of the new fragrance, addressed the gathered guests. "Hermine," he announced, "was created to be worn with your most luxurious ermine furs. Apply a few drops when you want to feel most voluptuous." His voice carried the weight of experience and passion for his craft, and as he spoke, models in ermine fur stoles moved gracefully among the guests, allowing them to touch and feel the luxurious texture of the furs.
He explained the inspiration behind the fragrance, sharing the story of the winter ermine, a creature long symbolizing purity and virginity. In Renaissance legend, the ermine would rather face death than allow its pure white coat to be soiled. This unwavering dedication to maintaining its immaculate fur was the essence captured in the fragrance. The president spoke of how perfumer Claude Fraysse, renowned for his expertise in creating evocative and sophisticated perfumes, had meticulously sourced the finest raw materials from around the world to create Hermine.
As he described the middle notes of the fragrance—attar of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, hibiscus, and orchid—the room seemed to bloom anew. The scent was rich and intoxicating, with each floral note contributing to a complex and harmonious bouquet. The sweetness of jasmine and tuberose mingled with the delicate nuances of hibiscus and orchid, creating a heart that was both bold and memorable.
The base notes of Hermine provided a grounding, sensual finish to the fragrance. Patchouli, musk, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, sandalwood, and vetiver added depth and longevity. The earthy, woody tones of patchouli and sandalwood were softened by the creamy sweetness of vanilla and the warm, resinous quality of ambergris. The president highlighted the rarity and cost of these ingredients, emphasizing the exclusivity and luxury of the perfume.
As the evening progressed, the sounds of soft classical music played by a live quartet filled the air, enhancing the sophisticated atmosphere. Guests engaged in hushed conversations, their voices mingling with the clinking of champagne glasses. The tactile experience of touching the soft, pristine ermine fur while inhaling the exotic, floral fragrance of Hermine was truly sublime. It was as if the purity and tenderness symbolized by the ermine had been bottled, ready to transport the wearer to a world of elegance and refinement.
The president concluded by reaffirming Hermine's symbolism of tenderness and virginity, making it the perfect accompaniment to the luxurious ermine fur. The guests left with a deeper appreciation for the artistry behind Parfums Weil, having experienced firsthand the harmonious blend of fragrance and fashion that the brand so masterfully created.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Though Hermine had been launched in 1927, its allure and sophistication ensured its place in the market for decades. Despite the introduction of new fragrances and changing trends, Hermine's captivating blend of tropical florals and rich, green chypre accord continued to enchant customers. By 1951, it was still being sold, a testament to its enduring popularity and timeless appeal. The demand for this exotic and opulent perfume remained strong, with connoisseurs and new customers alike seeking out its heady, evocative scent that transported them to faraway lands. The fragrance's rich history and symbolic representation of purity and tenderness kept it relevant, ensuring that it remained a cherished part of Parfums Weil's prestigious collection, even as other perfumes came and went.
