Zibeline by Weil c1927

Zibeline by Parfums Weil was launched in 1927, during a transformative period known as the Roaring Twenties. This decade was marked by a sense of liberation and innovation following the devastation of World War I. Society experienced a cultural revolution, with women gaining greater independence and embracing new roles and freedoms. The fashion and beauty industries were also evolving, with daring styles and bold statements becoming the norm. The flapper culture epitomized this shift, with women donning shorter skirts, bobbed hair, and makeup that accentuated their newfound confidence. In this vibrant and rapidly changing era, Zibeline by Parfums Weil emerged as a symbol of sophistication and elegance.

Parfums Weil chose the name "Zibeline" to evoke the luxurious and refined qualities of the perfume. The French word "zibeline" translates to "sable" in English, referring to the sable fur, which is renowned for its exceptional softness and rich texture. Sable fur has historically been associated with opulence and high status, often worn by royalty and the elite. By naming the perfume Zibeline, Weil aimed to convey a sense of luxury, exclusivity, and timeless elegance. The choice of this name was a nod to the company's origins as a furrier, seamlessly blending their heritage with their foray into the world of perfumery.

Zibeline was an appropriate name for the perfume because it encapsulated the essence of both the fragrance and the brand. The perfume, much like the sable fur, was designed to be rich, deep, and sophisticated. It was meant to complement the luxurious furs that Weil was famous for, enhancing the overall sensory experience of the wearer. The fragrance itself, a floral chypre with balsamic undertones, mirrored the qualities of the sable fur—elegant, refined, and enduringly beautiful. The name Zibeline therefore perfectly captured the spirit of the perfume, aligning it with the luxury and sophistication that Parfums Weil represented.

1928 ad

Women who related to a perfume called Zibeline were likely those who appreciated the finer things in life and had a discerning taste for elegance. These women valued both tradition and modernity, understanding the allure of classic luxury while embracing contemporary trends. They would respond to Zibeline with admiration and desire, recognizing it as a symbol of their own refined taste and sophisticated lifestyle. For these women, wearing Zibeline was not just about the fragrance itself but about the statement it made—a statement of grace, sophistication, and timeless beauty.

The word "Zibeline" evokes images of opulent ballrooms, elegant soirées, and the height of fashion. It conjures feelings of warmth, richness, and indulgence. The name brings to mind the tactile pleasure of touching soft, luxurious fur and the visual splendor of an exquisitely dressed woman exuding confidence and poise. The fragrance of Zibeline, with its blend of undergrowth, oaks, and wild firs, would evoke the natural beauty of a pristine forest, enhancing the sense of sophistication and purity. Overall, Zibeline by Parfums Weil was a testament to the brand's dedication to luxury and elegance, offering women a way to embody these qualities through their scent.

Origins:

Parfums Weil traces its origins back to 1892 when the Weil brothers—Marcel, Jacques, and Alfred—established their first boutique at 4 rue Sainte-Anne in Paris under the name Les Fourrures Weil. Initially renowned for their exquisite fur garments, the brothers quickly garnered a reputation for unparalleled quality and elegance. Their craftsmanship attracted a discerning clientele, solidifying the Weil name as synonymous with opulence and sophistication in the fashion world.

By 1927, leveraging their established reputation and the evolving trends in fashion, the Weil brothers made a strategic decision to diversify their offerings. They formally introduced fragrances under the brand Parfums Weil, marking a pivotal expansion beyond their core fur business. These perfumes were innovatively designed to be worn specifically on furs, enhancing the sensory experience of their luxurious garments. This pioneering approach distinguished Parfums Weil in the competitive perfume market, as their scents were meticulously crafted to complement the texture and warmth of fur, creating a harmonious fusion of fragrance and fashion.

The introduction of perfumes represented a significant evolution for Parfums Weil, seamlessly merging their expertise in fur craftsmanship with the artistry of perfumery. This strategic move not only broadened their appeal but also solidified their position as innovators in creating scented accessories for fur garments. It resonated deeply with the refined tastes of their clientele, establishing Parfums Weil as leaders in luxury goods that celebrated both sensory elegance and tactile luxury.

Zibeline:

Among the initial offerings, the fragrances bore names inspired by the luxurious furs they accompanied. One such notable perfume was Zibeline, named after the French term for sable. This floral chypre fragrance exuded sophistication with its complex blend of notes. Oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, and ambergris formed a rich base, complemented by the exotic allure of incense. Jasmine, rose, and ylang ylang added floral nuances, while aldehydes and bergamot imparted a bright opening. The result was a timeless scent that harmonized perfectly with the sumptuousness of sable fur, embodying elegance and luxury in every drop.

Created by Firmenich's master perfumer Claude Fraysse and his daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, Zibeline epitomized the Weil tradition of excellence and innovation in perfumery. Its creation underscored Parfums Weil's commitment to marrying the sensory pleasures of fragrance with the tactile allure of fine furs, further solidifying their unique niche in the luxury market.

Sable:

Sable is a small mammal of the marten family, known scientifically as Martes zibellina. It is native to the forests of northern Asia, particularly in Russia and Siberia. The sable is highly prized for its luxurious fur, which is renowned for its softness, density, and glossy appearance. The fur of the sable is often considered one of the finest and most valuable furs in the world, historically used to make high-end garments and accessories such as coats, stoles, hats, and muffs.

Sable fur has a rich, silky texture and comes in a variety of colors, ranging from light brown to almost black. The darkest furs are usually the most highly prized. Because of its beauty and rarity, sable fur has traditionally been associated with wealth, status, and luxury. It has been worn by royalty, aristocrats, and the elite throughout history.

In the context of Parfums Weil, naming a perfume "Zibeline" (the French word for sable) would evoke the same sense of luxury, elegance, and exclusivity that is associated with sable fur. The perfume would be seen as a symbol of refined taste and sophistication, appealing to those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Product Line:

Zibeline by Parfums Weil offered a comprehensive product line that catered to various preferences and applications, ensuring its presence beyond just fragrance. Available in parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne formulations, Zibeline provided options ranging from concentrated, long-lasting scents to lighter, refreshing splashes suitable for different occasions.

Beyond fragrance, Zibeline extended its allure into cosmetic products. It featured a lipstick that not only complemented the fragrance but also allowed wearers to embody the scent's elegance through a cosmetic touch. The inclusion of cream rouge enhanced the experience further, offering a tactile application that harmonized with the fragrance's luxurious appeal.

Adding to its charm, Zibeline also included a tassel sachet, combining fragrance with a decorative element that could be used to infuse personal spaces with its captivating scent. This diversified product line underscored Parfums Weil's commitment to offering a complete sensory and aesthetic experience, making Zibeline a coveted choice among discerning consumers seeking both elegance and versatility in their beauty and fragrance selections.

 

Fragrance Composition:

Zibeline is classified  as a sweet, heady aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It was created to recall the steppes and massive oak forests of Imperial Russia, where the finest sable furs were imported. It starts with a fresh and spicy aldehydic top, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, layered over a warm, balsamic, woody base.

• Top notes: neroli, lime blossom, aldehydes, orange, coriander, estragon, bergamot and lemon
• Middle notes: orris, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, hawthorn, linden and oriental rose
• Base notes: fir, opoponax, incense, oakmoss, honey, oak, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet and vetiver

Zibeline by Parfums Weil captivated the imagination of perfume enthusiasts across different eras with its evocative and versatile character. In 1931, newspaper ads in the US started to mention that Parfums Weil introduced a groundbreaking concept by creating perfumes that mimicked the scents of luxurious furs. This innovative idea merged the world of high fashion with the art of perfumery, offering a unique olfactory experience tailored for specific fur types. Weil, a celebrated Parisian furrier, overcame the challenge of crafting fragrances that embodied the essence of these exquisite furs. The three perfumes were named after some of the most beautiful and prized furs: Chinchilla, Hermine, and Zibeline. "Chinchilla" featured a delicate lily of the valley fragrance, harmonizing perfectly with the soft, luxurious pelts it was designed for. "Hermine," named after the ermine, offered a rich and woody scent, reflecting the pure and elegant nature of the fur. "Zibeline," inspired by the Russian sable, presented an elusive and modern fragrance, capturing the mystique and sophistication of this rare fur.

By 1933, the allure of Zibeline had become widely recognized. It was a sophisticated, heady fragrance that promised to boost the wearer's confidence and charm. The name "Zibeline" translates to "Russian sable," evoking the image of opulence and exclusivity associated with this luxurious fur. The perfume was designed to complete a conquest, suggesting that its subtle yet captivating scent could leave a lasting impression. Zibeline was praised for its new and absolutely different aroma, answering the call for romantic and exciting fragrances. It bordered on the sensuous, with an almost oriental richness that made it perfect for adding a final touch of glamour.

The same year, another description of Zibeline emphasized its ability to recapture the ecstasy of a moment. This pungent, sweet floral scent was as spicy and warm as the flowers of Bali, offering a lingering fragrance that haunted the senses. Initially introduced to perfume furs, Zibeline quickly became a favorite among Parisian women, who could not confine its luxurious scent to their furs alone. Its ecstatic and lingering odeur made it a perfect match for glamorous occasions, whether worn with the finest furs or formal evening gowns. The fragrance of Zibeline was designed to linger on furs for weeks, ensuring a lasting impression of elegance and sophistication.

Harper's Bazaar in 1936 painted Zibeline by Weil as a perfume that exuded richness and huskiness akin to a torch song—a sentiment that resonated with bold, confident blondes who preferred assertive fragrances over subdued pastels. This characterization highlighted Zibeline's ability to evoke deep, resonant emotions through its complex blend of spicy, woody notes that left a lasting impression.

In 1950, described in L'Amour de l'art, Zibeline was likened to its namesake fur, embodying preciousness and delicacy that suited all women. Its enchanting blend, redolent of undergrowth, oaks, and wild firs, blossomed beautifully in the warm ambiance of gala events, making it a perfect complement to sophisticated occasions where elegance and allure were paramount.

By 1956, Harper's Bazaar revisited Zibeline, describing it as a bittersweet romance captured in a perfume, yet with a lighter, brighter facet that added dimension to its allure. Available in a one-ounce bottle for $15, Zibeline appealed to those seeking a fragrance that balanced intensity with a nuanced sophistication, ideal for both daytime elegance and evening sophistication.

Consumer Reports, also in 1956, offered a pragmatic view of Zibeline by Parfums Weil, recognizing its heavy, spicy-woody profile that appealed to connoisseurs of robust fragrances. Available in different sizes—1/2 oz for $5, 1 oz for $15, and 1 1/2 oz for $27.50—Zibeline was positioned as a choice for those who appreciated its potent and distinctive aroma, making it a staple in the collection of discerning fragrance enthusiasts seeking both quality and character in their perfumes.

Bottles:

Zibeline Parfum by Parfums Weil was offered in a range of sizes to cater to various preferences and needs. The availability of five different sizes highlighted its popularity and versatility among perfume enthusiasts. Customers could choose from the generous 1 3/4 oz bottle for those who favored a larger supply of their favorite scent, down to the more compact options such as the 3/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1/4 oz sizes, providing flexibility for different usage occasions or as gifts. Additionally, the smallest size offered was the 1 dram, equivalent to 1/8 oz, which provided a convenient and portable option for those who preferred to carry their fragrance with them. This variety in sizes allowed Zibeline Parfum to appeal to a broad spectrum of consumers, ensuring that everyone could enjoy the luxurious and captivating aroma of this iconic perfume by Parfums Weil. 

The original bottle used for Zibeline's parfum looks identical to this one used for Chinchilla Royal and Hermine. The bottle has a navette shaped footprint and a gilded glass stopper. The oldest bottles used for Weil's perfumes have the sleigh scene in the diamond motif accompanied by "Parfums des Fourrures Weil Paris."

The bottle below was first used in 1934. It originally was made in Czechoslovakia and had gold enamel accents along the ribbed sides. By 1945, the bottle was produced in France due to wartime restrictions, also the gold enameling was no longer used. The bottle was still used in 1948 but was later replaced by another bottle.

This bottle is made up of Czech cut crystal and accented with gold enamel along the edges. The stopper has the name Weil en intaglio. The bottle was also available without the gilding.

Other Parfum Bottles:

An intriguing limited edition bottle was made by Baccarat. This exquisite cut crystal bottle has various faceted sides and an unusual navette shape when viewed from the side. It is acid marked Baccarat on the base. It was only used in 1955 I believe.

Cylindrical Bottles:

Bottle made by Baccarat. Weil started using Baccarat model #524 as early as 1933. However, these cylindrical bottles were used at mostly the end of the 1940s and into the 1950s. This bottle was also used by other perfumeries: Gabilla, Molyneux, and Jean Desprez. 

Tapered Bottles:

The cylindrical bottles were replaced by the tapered bottles with the disk shaped stoppers molded with an intaglio "W."  These date to 1960s-onward. The shiny gold boxes date to the 1970s.

EAU DE TOILETTES

In 1930, the first Weil eau de toilettes debuted, Chinchilla and Zibeline.

 

COLOGNE

The Zibeline cologne was available in various bottles. The eau de cologne has 80% alcohol. The first bottle is the one below, it is extremely hard to find today.

The bottle below was used in the 1940s-1950s.

The bottle below replaced the one pictured above, notice the difference in screw cap and label.

The bottle below was used in the 1960s-1970s. It was also used for the "Eau de Fraicheur."

Lotion (Hair or Friction Lotion):

The bottle below was first used around 1941. It was 70% alcohol.

Stage, 1936:

"There's something pretty exhilarating about the new fizzing cologne of Parfums Weil called Carbo-nique. It comes in three odors: Cassandra, Bamboo, and Zibeline, and the seltzer-bottle container is returnable for credit on a new one."

SECRET DE VENUS

Zibeline went on to have a very successful future with the advent of the Secret de Venus Huile line of bath & body oils .


Glass Packer, 1949:

"HOUR-GLASS BOTTLE, bright green cap, and beige linen-like box, are used by Parfums Weil Paris, Inc. to package the new, half-ounce size of Secret of Venus, Zibeline fragrance, compounded of aromatic oils."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Zibeline was discontinued around 1984.

In 2010, Parfums Weil reintroduced three new fragrances: Zibeline de Weil, Secret de Weil and Reve de Weil.

Zibeline de Weil is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: ylang-ylang, bergamot and plum
• Middle notes: orange blossom, sweet pea and wallflower
• Base notes: benzoin and tonka bean

Based on some online reviews, this version is Zibeline is different from the original. It is said to be lighter in character and modernized for today's tastes.