Antilope by Weil c1928

Antilope by Weil: launched in 1928. The perfume was trademarked in 1931 and was relaunched after WWII ended in 1945. Created by Claude Fraysse.

c1947 ad

Grigri by Weil c1943

Grigri by Weil: launched in 1943. The name pronounced "Gree Gree", is African in origin and means "magic charm" or "talisman." I believe that this perfume, with its exotic name and advertisements, was some sort of patriotic allusion to the French colonies in West Africa. Jean Patou, another French perfume manufacturer visited this theme with his perfume, Colony.

Noir by Weil c1937

In 1937, the world was on the brink of significant upheaval. The late 1930s were marked by political tension, economic recovery from the Great Depression, and a cultural shift towards modernity and sophistication. Against this backdrop, Parfums Weil launched their new fragrance, "Noir," a creation by the esteemed perfumer Jacqueline Fraysse. This period saw a fascination with the mysterious and the elegant, qualities that "Noir" encapsulated perfectly.

The name "Noir" is a French word meaning "black." In the context of the late 1930s, black symbolized sophistication, mystery, and timeless elegance. Choosing the name "Noir" for a perfume was a deliberate move by Parfums Weil to evoke a sense of intrigue and allure. The word "Noir" carries with it connotations of the unknown, the seductive, and the dramatic, aligning perfectly with the era's fascination with film noir and the glamor of the silver screen.

A perfume named "Noir" would appeal to women who identified with these qualities. These were women who embraced the sophistication of eveningwear, the elegance of classic fashion, and the allure of mystery. The scent would likely evoke images of smoky jazz clubs, elegant soirées, and the enigmatic femme fatale. "Noir" was designed for the woman who wanted to feel captivating and irresistible, who appreciated the blend of darkness and light that characterized both the fragrance and the era.

The perfume itself, created by Jacqueline Fraysse, would have been a rich, complex scent that mirrored the layered emotions and experiences of the time. Women who wore "Noir" would respond to its depth and sophistication, finding in it a reflection of their own complexity and allure. The fragrance would evoke feelings of power, confidence, and seduction, making it an appropriate and desirable choice for the modern woman of the late 1930s.

Chunga by Weil c1977

Chunga by Parfums Weil was launched in 1977, a decade characterized by a cultural renaissance that embraced boldness, individuality, and an eclectic mix of influences. The 1970s saw significant shifts in fashion, music, and art, with a notable return to natural and exotic elements. This era was marked by a fascination with global cultures, reflected in the vibrant, diverse trends of the time. The fragrance industry was no exception, with many brands drawing inspiration from far-flung locales and unique cultural motifs.

The name "Chunga" likely stems from a word in Spanish, where "chunga" can mean playful or jesting. In this context, it suggests a sense of fun, mischief, and light-heartedness. Parfums Weil may have chosen this name to evoke a playful, exotic allure, aligning with the adventurous spirit of the 1970s. "Chunga" as a name for a perfume carries connotations of intrigue and excitement, a playful dance of scents that tease and tantalize the senses.

Choosing "Chunga" as a name for a perfume fits well with the adventurous, boundary-pushing ethos of the 1970s. During this period, people were eager to explore new experiences and break away from traditional norms. A perfume named "Chunga" would appeal to individuals seeking a unique, bold fragrance that stood out from the more conventional scents of the time. The name suggests a fragrance that is not just an accessory but a statement, a playful and daring choice for those who want to express their individuality and zest for life.

The imagery and feelings evoked by the word "Chunga" are rich and vibrant. One might envision a lively, colorful marketplace filled with exotic spices and flowers, where every corner holds a new surprise. The scent would likely be a blend of vibrant, spicy, and floral notes, capturing the essence of a carefree, spirited adventure. The name conjures up images of playful flirtation, spontaneous dancing, and the joy of living in the moment. It suggests a perfume that is both exotic and accessible, appealing to the senses with its unique, captivating blend.

Padisha by Weil c1922

he launch of "Padisha" by Parfums Weil in 1922 and its subsequent re-launch for public sale in 1947 coincided with distinct periods of cultural and historical significance. In 1922, when the perfume was first introduced as a gift to special clients, Europe and the Middle East were undergoing significant political and social changes following World War I. This period marked the decline of the Ottoman Empire and the emergence of new nation-states in the Middle East, with Turkey transitioning into a republic under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

The name "Padisha," derived from the Turkish word "Padishah," refers to a high-ranking sovereign title historically used in the Ottoman Empire and Persia. It translates to "Great King" or "Emperor" in English. Choosing "Padisha" as the name for a perfume could evoke images of grandeur, opulence, and imperial authority, resonating with the cultural richness and historical legacy associated with the Ottoman Empire. The name suggests luxury, authority, and exoticism, qualities that would appeal to a clientele seeking prestige and sophistication in fragrance.

For Parfums Weil, re-launching "Padisha" for public sale in 1947 came during a post-World War II era marked by recovery and rebuilding across Europe. This period saw a renewed interest in luxury goods and a desire to recapture the elegance and refinement of pre-war times. The name "Padisha" would have appealed to individuals who appreciated classical elegance, exotic allure, and a sense of history in their perfumes. It would likely have been marketed to a sophisticated clientele who valued tradition, exclusivity, and the allure of oriental mystique embodied in the name.

Cassandra by Weil c1935

The launch of the perfume "Cassandra" by Parfums Weil in 1935 coincided with a period of artistic and cultural richness in both Europe and the United States. This era, between the two World Wars, saw a blend of traditional elegance and modernist experimentation in fashion, art, and literature. It was a time when perfumery was evolving, with new fragrances being crafted to reflect changing tastes and societal norms.

Parfums Weil likely chose the name "Cassandra" for its perfume to evoke a sense of mystery, allure, and sophistication. In Greek mythology, Cassandra was a Trojan princess blessed with the gift of prophecy but cursed so that her predictions would never be believed. She embodies a tragic yet compelling figure whose story resonates with themes of foresight, fate, and the tension between truth and disbelief.

Cassandra's association with prophecy and her tragic fate could make her an apt symbol for a perfume. Fragrance, like prophecy, can evoke emotions, memories, and anticipation of the future. Naming a perfume after Cassandra suggests it might possess an enigmatic allure, hinting at hidden depths and a captivating, yet perhaps elusive, beauty.

People who would relate to a perfume named "Cassandra" might be drawn to its evocative name and the mythological connotations it carries. They might see it as a perfume that promises to awaken senses, evoke emotions, and leave a lasting impression. Those familiar with the myth might be intrigued by the idea of wearing a fragrance that channels Cassandra's mystique and tragic allure.

The word "Cassandra" evokes images of ancient Greece, of prophetic visions, and of a woman with an intense gaze and a compelling story. It carries feelings of mystery, wisdom, and a touch of sorrow. For those attracted to the perfume, "Cassandra" could embody a blend of sophistication and emotional depth, offering wearers a chance to connect with a fragrance that speaks to both the past and the present, resonating with timeless themes of beauty, fate, and the complexity of human experience.

Hermine by Weil c1928

Hermine by Parfums Weil was launched in 1927, a time of significant cultural and social change. The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, were characterized by a dynamic shift in lifestyle, fashion, and attitudes. This era saw the rise of jazz music, flapper culture, and a general sense of liberation and modernity following the end of World War I. Women were gaining more freedom and independence, reflected in their bolder fashion choices and the embrace of new beauty standards. It was in this vibrant and transformative period that Hermine made its debut, capturing the spirit of the age with its exotic and luxurious composition.

Parfums Weil chose the name "Hermine" for their newest fragrance to evoke the elegance and purity associated with the ermine, a small mammal known for its pristine white fur. The French word "hermine" translates to "ermine" in English. Historically, the ermine has been a symbol of purity and virginity, particularly in art and heraldry. The legend of the ermine, which would rather face death than soil its immaculate coat, underscored its representation of unblemished purity and noble character. This symbolism made "Hermine" an appropriate and evocative name for a perfume, suggesting a fragrance that embodies both luxury and a sense of pristine beauty.

The choice of the name "Hermine" also aligned perfectly with Parfums Weil's heritage as a brand originally renowned for their exquisite fur garments. By naming the perfume after such an elegant and pure fur, Weil continued their tradition of linking their fragrances to the luxurious world of fur fashion. Hermine was designed to be worn with ermine furs, enhancing the wearer’s experience by complementing the tactile luxury of the fur with an equally opulent scent.

Women who related to a perfume called "Hermine" were likely those who appreciated both the luxurious and the symbolic aspects of their personal accessories. They were women who valued purity, elegance, and an element of sophistication in their lifestyle. For them, wearing Hermine was more than just applying a fragrance—it was about embodying the qualities that the perfume represented. These women would respond to Hermine with a sense of reverence and delight, finding in its scent a reflection of their own ideals of beauty and refinement.

The word "Hermine" evokes images of untouched snow, regal courts, and timeless beauty. It conjures feelings of nostalgia for a time when elegance and purity were held in the highest regard. The fragrance itself, heavy with sweet tropical flowers of the Pacific Isles and a green chypre accord, would transport the wearer to exotic locales, adding a touch of adventure to the sense of pristine luxury. The combination of these elements made Hermine not just a perfume, but a symbol of the wearer’s connection to both the natural world's beauty and the refined sophistication of high fashion.

Origins:

Parfums Weil traces its origins back to 1892 when the Weil brothers—Marcel, Jacques, and Alfred—established their first boutique at 4 rue Sainte-Anne in Paris under the name Les Fourrures Weil. Initially renowned for their exquisite fur garments, the brothers quickly garnered a reputation for unparalleled quality and elegance. Their craftsmanship attracted a discerning clientele, solidifying the Weil name as synonymous with opulence and sophistication in the fashion world.

By 1927, leveraging their established reputation and the evolving trends in fashion, the Weil brothers made a strategic decision to diversify their offerings. They formally introduced fragrances under the brand Parfums Weil, marking a pivotal expansion beyond their core fur business. These perfumes were innovatively designed to be worn specifically on furs, enhancing the sensory experience of their luxurious garments. This pioneering approach distinguished Parfums Weil in the competitive perfume market, as their scents were meticulously crafted to complement the texture and warmth of fur, creating a harmonious fusion of fragrance and fashion.

The introduction of perfumes represented a significant evolution for Parfums Weil, seamlessly merging their expertise in fur craftsmanship with the artistry of perfumery. This strategic move not only broadened their appeal but also solidified their position as innovators in creating scented accessories for fur garments. It resonated deeply with the refined tastes of their clientele, establishing Parfums Weil as leaders in luxury goods that celebrated both sensory elegance and tactile luxury.

Hermine:

Among the initial offerings, the fragrances bore names inspired by the luxurious furs they accompanied. One such notable perfume was Hermine, aptly named after the luxurious ermine fur, it was a heady tropical floral perfume by Parfums Weil that evoked the allure of far-off exotic locales. With its rich and intoxicating blend of notes, Hermine transported the wearer to a world of lush, fragrant blooms and warm, inviting landscapes. The perfume opened with the sweet and opulent scents of jasmine and rose, immediately captivating the senses with their timeless elegance.

Magnolia added a creamy, velvety touch to the heart of the fragrance, harmonizing beautifully with the bright and zesty hint of orange. As the scent developed, the warmth of ambergris emerged, providing a subtle, oceanic depth that was both mysterious and alluring. The base notes of musk and tonka bean added a sensual, grounding quality to the perfume, creating a lingering, unforgettable trail.

This bold and memorable tropical floral blend was designed to stand out, perfectly complementing the pristine white fur of ermine. The luxurious fragrance mirrored the sophistication and elegance of the fur, making it an ideal choice for those who sought a scent that was both distinctive and refined. Hermine by Parfums Weil celebrated the beauty of exotic flowers and the richness of natural materials, offering a sensory experience that was as enchanting as it was opulent.

Created by Firmenich's master perfumer Claude Fraysse and his daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, Zibeline epitomized the Weil tradition of excellence and innovation in perfumery. Its creation underscored Parfums Weil's commitment to marrying the sensory pleasures of fragrance with the tactile allure of fine furs, further solidifying their unique niche in the luxury market.

The Ermine:

The winter ermine, with its pristine white fur, has long been a symbol of purity and virginity in art and culture. This association dates back to the Renaissance era, where legends told of the ermine's unwavering dedication to maintaining the purity of its coat. It was believed that an ermine would rather die than allow its immaculate fur to be soiled. According to these legends, when pursued by hunters, the ermine would turn back and surrender rather than risk tarnishing its white coat. This act of choosing death over impurity underscored the animal's emblematic representation of unblemished purity.

One notable depiction of this legend is found in Henry Peacham's Emblem 75, which portrays an ermine pursued by a hunter and two hounds. Titled "Cui candor morte redemptus," or "Purity bought with his own death," Peacham's emblem underscores the ermine's symbolic significance. He extols the ermine's example, urging men and women to emulate this legendary creature by keeping their minds and consciences as pure as the ermine keeps its fur. This message resonated during the Renaissance, a time when symbolism in art and literature was richly woven with moral and ethical teachings.

In addition to its Western symbolic meanings, the ermine holds a special place in Japanese culture as well. Known for its adorable appearance and somewhat elusive nature, the ermine is considered a symbol of good luck in some areas of Japan. This cultural reverence adds another layer to the ermine's rich tapestry of symbolic associations, blending notions of purity, virtue, and fortune.

The use of ermine fur in art and fashion, therefore, carries deep connotations of these values. Parfums Weil's Hermine perfume, named after this esteemed animal, captures the essence of the ermine's symbolic purity and luxury. The fragrance, with its heady tropical floral notes of jasmine, rose, magnolia, and orange, complemented by the warmth of ambergris, musk, and tonka bean, mirrors the elegance and refinement associated with the ermine. Just as the ermine's white coat was revered and protected, the fragrance envelops the wearer in an aura of sophistication and timeless beauty.

Fragrance Composition:

Hermine was intended to symbolize tenderness and virginity.

So what does it smell like? It was heavy with the sweet, tropical flowers of the Pacific Isles. Described as a sweet, floral, with a green chypre accord. 

• Top notes: magnolia, orange, bergamot, galbanum, gardenia, tiare, coconut, frangipani
• Middle notes: attar of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, hibiscus, orchid
• Base notes: patchouli, musk, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver

In a 1930 article, the distinction between perfumes used on sable and ermine fur is described in terms of their composition and character. The perfume used on sable fur is noted to be rich and evocative, carrying heavy notes reminiscent of sandalwood. This choice of fragrance aligns with the luxurious and sophisticated nature of sable fur, enhancing its opulent appeal with deep, woody undertones that add to its allure and elegance.

On the other hand, the perfume intended for ermine fur is described as lighter in comparison. It is noted to include a hint of attar of roses, a fragrant essential oil derived from rose petals. This lighter composition aims to complement the delicate and pristine quality of ermine fur, enhancing its natural beauty with floral notes that evoke freshness and purity. The use of attar of roses underscores the fur's symbolism of purity and virginity, aligning with cultural associations that have long portrayed ermine fur as a symbol of grace and innocence.

These nuanced choices in perfume compositions highlight the meticulous attention to detail in fur care and maintenance during this era, where fragrances were carefully selected to not only preserve but also enhance the luxurious qualities of fur garments, ensuring they remained both aesthetically pleasing and evocative of sophistication and refinement.

Scent Story:

In the lavish Weil Fur Salon in 1927, the atmosphere was charged with anticipation. The space reserved for the display of their latest creation, the "Hermine" fragrance, was nothing short of a tropical paradise. Fresh gardenias, tuberoses, hibiscus, palm trees, and orchids adorned the room, their intoxicating scents mingling in the air, creating a heady, lush ambiance. Luxurious ermine stoles, muffs, hats, and coats were elegantly draped on models who glided through the salon, their pristine white fur garments complementing the exotic floral display.

As I entered, the rich aroma of magnolia, orange, bergamot, galbanum, gardenia, tiare, coconut, and frangipani filled the air, creating an immediate sense of opulence and warmth. The top notes were bright and fresh, yet carried an exotic sweetness that was unmistakably tropical. The smell was so vivid that I could almost taste the sweet nectar of these blooms, mingling with the subtle zest of citrus.

The president of Parfums Weil, standing in front of an elaborate display of the new fragrance, addressed the gathered guests. "Hermine," he announced, "was created to be worn with your most luxurious ermine furs. Apply a few drops when you want to feel most voluptuous." His voice carried the weight of experience and passion for his craft, and as he spoke, models in ermine fur stoles moved gracefully among the guests, allowing them to touch and feel the luxurious texture of the furs.

He explained the inspiration behind the fragrance, sharing the story of the winter ermine, a creature long symbolizing purity and virginity. In Renaissance legend, the ermine would rather face death than allow its pure white coat to be soiled. This unwavering dedication to maintaining its immaculate fur was the essence captured in the fragrance. The president spoke of how perfumer Claude Fraysse, renowned for his expertise in creating evocative and sophisticated perfumes, had meticulously sourced the finest raw materials from around the world to create Hermine.

As he described the middle notes of the fragrance—attar of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, hibiscus, and orchid—the room seemed to bloom anew. The scent was rich and intoxicating, with each floral note contributing to a complex and harmonious bouquet. The sweetness of jasmine and tuberose mingled with the delicate nuances of hibiscus and orchid, creating a heart that was both bold and memorable.

The base notes of Hermine provided a grounding, sensual finish to the fragrance. Patchouli, musk, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, sandalwood, and vetiver added depth and longevity. The earthy, woody tones of patchouli and sandalwood were softened by the creamy sweetness of vanilla and the warm, resinous quality of ambergris. The president highlighted the rarity and cost of these ingredients, emphasizing the exclusivity and luxury of the perfume.

As the evening progressed, the sounds of soft classical music played by a live quartet filled the air, enhancing the sophisticated atmosphere. Guests engaged in hushed conversations, their voices mingling with the clinking of champagne glasses. The tactile experience of touching the soft, pristine ermine fur while inhaling the exotic, floral fragrance of Hermine was truly sublime. It was as if the purity and tenderness symbolized by the ermine had been bottled, ready to transport the wearer to a world of elegance and refinement.

The president concluded by reaffirming Hermine's symbolism of tenderness and virginity, making it the perfect accompaniment to the luxurious ermine fur. The guests left with a deeper appreciation for the artistry behind Parfums Weil, having experienced firsthand the harmonious blend of fragrance and fashion that the brand so masterfully created.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Though Hermine had been launched in 1927, its allure and sophistication ensured its place in the market for decades. Despite the introduction of new fragrances and changing trends, Hermine's captivating blend of tropical florals and rich, green chypre accord continued to enchant customers. By 1951, it was still being sold, a testament to its enduring popularity and timeless appeal. The demand for this exotic and opulent perfume remained strong, with connoisseurs and new customers alike seeking out its heady, evocative scent that transported them to faraway lands. The fragrance's rich history and symbolic representation of purity and tenderness kept it relevant, ensuring that it remained a cherished part of Parfums Weil's prestigious collection, even as other perfumes came and went.

Zibeline by Weil c1927

Zibeline by Parfums Weil was launched in 1927, during a transformative period known as the Roaring Twenties. This decade was marked by a sense of liberation and innovation following the devastation of World War I. Society experienced a cultural revolution, with women gaining greater independence and embracing new roles and freedoms. The fashion and beauty industries were also evolving, with daring styles and bold statements becoming the norm. The flapper culture epitomized this shift, with women donning shorter skirts, bobbed hair, and makeup that accentuated their newfound confidence. In this vibrant and rapidly changing era, Zibeline by Parfums Weil emerged as a symbol of sophistication and elegance.

Parfums Weil chose the name "Zibeline" to evoke the luxurious and refined qualities of the perfume. The French word "zibeline" translates to "sable" in English, referring to the sable fur, which is renowned for its exceptional softness and rich texture. Sable fur has historically been associated with opulence and high status, often worn by royalty and the elite. By naming the perfume Zibeline, Weil aimed to convey a sense of luxury, exclusivity, and timeless elegance. The choice of this name was a nod to the company's origins as a furrier, seamlessly blending their heritage with their foray into the world of perfumery.

Zibeline was an appropriate name for the perfume because it encapsulated the essence of both the fragrance and the brand. The perfume, much like the sable fur, was designed to be rich, deep, and sophisticated. It was meant to complement the luxurious furs that Weil was famous for, enhancing the overall sensory experience of the wearer. The fragrance itself, a floral chypre with balsamic undertones, mirrored the qualities of the sable fur—elegant, refined, and enduringly beautiful. The name Zibeline therefore perfectly captured the spirit of the perfume, aligning it with the luxury and sophistication that Parfums Weil represented.

1928 ad

Cobra by Weil c1941

"Cobra," launched by Parfums Weil in 1941, emerged during a unique period defined by wartime challenges and shifting cultural dynamics. The early 1940s were marked by global conflict, where nations were deeply engaged in World War II, influencing every aspect of life, including fashion and perfumery. Amidst these turbulent times, perfumes often sought to evoke strength, allure, and a sense of resilience.

Parfums Weil likely chose the name "Cobra" for its perfume to tap into these themes of power, mystique, and exoticism. The cobra itself is a symbol of danger and intrigue, often associated with the mysterious allure of distant lands and ancient civilizations. In perfume marketing, such associations can be compelling, promising wearers an experience that transcends the ordinary, transporting them to a realm of adventure and sophistication.

Chinchilla by Weil c1927

Chinchilla by Weil, introduced in 1927 and crafted by the talented perfumer Claude Fraysse, emerged as a notable fragrance in the perfumery landscape of its time. This scent, often referred to alternatively as Chinchilla Royal starting as early as 1929, exemplified the luxurious and opulent spirit associated with its namesake fur.

Claude Fraysse, known for his expertise in creating evocative and sophisticated perfumes, imbued Chinchilla with a blend of notes that captured the essence of refinement and elegance. The fragrance aimed to mirror the plushness and allure of chinchilla fur, which was prized for its softness and luxurious texture in the fashion world.

Chinchilla Royal quickly gained recognition for its ability to complement and enhance the experience of wearing fur, reflecting the glamour and sophistication of the era. By aligning fragrance with the prestige of chinchilla fur, Weil underscored its commitment to creating perfumes that resonated with the discerning tastes of luxury consumers. Chinchilla's enduring popularity and association with royalty and opulence solidified its place as a timeless classic in the realm of fur-inspired perfumery.