The launch of the perfume "Cassandra" by Parfums Weil in 1935 coincided with a period of artistic and cultural richness in both Europe and the United States. This era, between the two World Wars, saw a blend of traditional elegance and modernist experimentation in fashion, art, and literature. It was a time when perfumery was evolving, with new fragrances being crafted to reflect changing tastes and societal norms.
Parfums Weil likely chose the name "Cassandra" for its perfume to evoke a sense of mystery, allure, and sophistication. In Greek mythology, Cassandra was a Trojan princess blessed with the gift of prophecy but cursed so that her predictions would never be believed. She embodies a tragic yet compelling figure whose story resonates with themes of foresight, fate, and the tension between truth and disbelief.
Cassandra's association with prophecy and her tragic fate could make her an apt symbol for a perfume. Fragrance, like prophecy, can evoke emotions, memories, and anticipation of the future. Naming a perfume after Cassandra suggests it might possess an enigmatic allure, hinting at hidden depths and a captivating, yet perhaps elusive, beauty.
People who would relate to a perfume named "Cassandra" might be drawn to its evocative name and the mythological connotations it carries. They might see it as a perfume that promises to awaken senses, evoke emotions, and leave a lasting impression. Those familiar with the myth might be intrigued by the idea of wearing a fragrance that channels Cassandra's mystique and tragic allure.
The word "Cassandra" evokes images of ancient Greece, of prophetic visions, and of a woman with an intense gaze and a compelling story. It carries feelings of mystery, wisdom, and a touch of sorrow. For those attracted to the perfume, "Cassandra" could embody a blend of sophistication and emotional depth, offering wearers a chance to connect with a fragrance that speaks to both the past and the present, resonating with timeless themes of beauty, fate, and the complexity of human experience.
Jacqueline Fraysse, the creator of the perfume "Cassandra" for Parfums Weil, was renowned for her expertise and dedication to the art of perfumery. Her meticulous approach to fragrance creation is evident in the two-year process it took to perfect Cassandra. This timeframe underscores the careful blending of ingredients, the balancing of notes, and the pursuit of a scent that would embody the essence of its mythological namesake.
During those two years, Jacqueline Fraysse would have meticulously experimented with various ingredients and compositions to achieve the desired olfactory profile for Cassandra. Perfume creation is a complex alchemy, requiring not only technical skill but also an intuitive understanding of how different notes interact and evolve on the skin over time.
Fraysse's goal would have been to craft a fragrance that captured the essence of Cassandra's mythological attributes—her beauty, her complexity, and her prophetic nature. Each note chosen, from the top to the base, would have been carefully selected to evoke a sensory journey that resonates with the perfume's intended narrative and emotional impact.
The dedication and craftsmanship involved in perfecting Cassandra over two years would have ensured that the fragrance met the high standards of Parfums Weil and appealed to the sophisticated tastes of its clientele. For those who appreciate the artistry behind perfume creation, knowing that Cassandra was a labor of love and expertise by Jacqueline Fraysse would add an extra layer of appreciation for its depth and allure.
Product Line:
Cassandra was offered in a diverse product line that catered to various preferences and occasions. Available as a parfum, cologne, and toilet water, Cassandra provided options ranging from the concentrated richness of the parfum to the lighter, refreshing formulations of the cologne and toilet water. Each variant would have retained the essence crafted by Jacqueline Fraysse over two years, ensuring that whether worn as a bold statement or a subtle accent, Cassandra maintained its allure and complexity. This variety in product offerings not only appealed to a broad spectrum of fragrance enthusiasts but also underscored Parfums Weil's commitment to providing luxurious and versatile scents that complemented different lifestyles and moments.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet and spicy floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: cardamom, ginger, aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, pepper, lemon, geranium, fruity note, anise, cinnamon
- Middle notes: ylang ylang, tuberose, gardenia, carnation, lavender, hazelnut, jasmine, Nepalese rose, galbanum, honey, orange blossom
- Base notes: tonka bean, labdanum, ambergris, resin, Mysore sandalwood, civet, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, styrax, musk, vetiver, patchouli, myrrh
One of my readers had sent me a gift of perfume. Tina's generous gift of a sample of Cassandra parfum from its exquisite Baccarat flacon unveiled a journey of olfactory intrigue and complexity. As I applied the perfume to my skin, its initial impression was sharp and pungent, opening with a vibrant burst of chypre notes underscored by the zesty freshness of bergamot and hints of lemon or geranium, enhanced by aldehydes that lent a sparkling quality. Soon, the composition unfolded into a spicy embrace, with carnation adding its peppery allure, sprinkled with herbal nuances that layered over a verdant bed of oakmoss, galbanum, and styrax.
As the heart notes bloomed, a heady and powdery aura enveloped the senses, where ambergris mingled with the creamy richness of sandalwood and the ancient allure of myrrh and frankincense. The sweetness of benzoin or vanilla added depth and warmth, while indolic jasmine and roses, dripping with honeyed sweetness, contributed to the perfume's opulent bouquet. In the background, the animalic whispers of civet and musk formed a robust and well-rounded base, adding a touch of primal sensuality.
The journey through Cassandra's evolution culminated in a smoky and intoxicating dry down, where the unabashed richness of ambergris and the woody depth of patchouli and sandalwood created a lingering, mesmerizing trail. Each element of the perfume harmonized seamlessly, creating an experience that was both captivating and unforgettable, evoking images of ancient mysteries and timeless allure.
Scent Story:
In the grand halls of Weil's prestigious Fur Salon in 1935, anticipation hung thick in the air as esteemed guests mingled amidst a lavish display of fresh gardenias, tuberoses, orange blossoms, and roses. The perfume department, transformed into a sanctuary of elegance reminiscent of an ancient Greek temple, exuded an aura of timeless beauty and mystery. Ionic columns, meticulously arranged, framed the space where the centerpiece of the event awaited—a Baccarat crystal bottle shaped like an Ionic column itself, bathed in a celestial spotlight that made it gleam with ethereal allure upon its marble pedestal.
As guests strolled through this fragrant haven, models draped in Neo-Classical gowns glided gracefully, offering delicate vials of the new fragrance, Cassandra. Each vial held the essence of Jacqueline Fraysse's masterwork—a sweet and spicy floral oriental blend that promised intrigue and sophistication with every drop. The perfume's name, Cassandra, whispered of prophetic mystery and allure, perfectly suited to accompany elegant evening gowns and moments of enigmatic allure.
The president of Parfums Weil, a figure of authority and elegance himself, stood amidst the opulence, sharing the story of Cassandra with his captivated audience. He described how each ingredient, sourced from the farthest corners of the world, contributed to the perfume's luxurious complexity. Cardamom and ginger imparted a spicy intrigue, while aldehydes and bergamot added a sparkling freshness that mingled with the warmth of mandarin and pepper. Lemon and geranium lent a vibrant zest, complemented by anise and cinnamon's subtle sweetness.
In the heart of Cassandra, ylang ylang and tuberose intertwined with the lushness of gardenia and the spiciness of carnation. Lavender and jasmine brought a delicate floral bouquet, while Nepalese rose and honey added a touch of exotic sweetness. Orange blossom and galbanum contributed a hint of freshness, creating a harmonious symphony that captured the essence of feminine allure and mystery.
At the base, a rich tapestry of tonka bean and labdanum provided a warm, resinous depth, enhanced by the earthiness of ambergris and the exotic allure of Mysore sandalwood. Civet and benzoin added a touch of animalic sensuality, while vanilla and oakmoss provided a smooth, velvety finish. Styrax and musk lingered on the skin like a whispered promise, supported by the grounding notes of vetiver, patchouli, and myrrh, which added a hint of mystery and depth.
In the background, the soft murmur of conversation and the delicate clinking of crystal glasses blended with the enchanting melodies played by a string quartet, creating an atmosphere of refined sophistication. Guests, enveloped in the luxurious ambiance and entranced by the fragrance's evocative allure, were transported to a realm where elegance met intrigue, and every whisper of Cassandra's scent hinted at stories untold and mysteries yet to unfold.
Bottles:
Columnar Baccarat Bottle:
These are approximate, I will need exact measurements and confirmed labels to be sure.
- 1/5 oz Parfum (column flacon) stands 1.5" tall.
- 1/2 oz Parfum (column flacon) stands 2.12" tall.
- 1 oz Parfum (column flacon) stands 3" tall.
- 1.75 oz Parfum (column flacon) stands 3.5" tall
- 2 oz Parfum stands 4.5" tall.
Vogue, 1936:
"Cassandra de Weil. Exotic, but fresh, fatal, but feminine. He announces a destiny without wanting to express it."
Harper's Bazaar, 1949:
"Weil's "Cassandra," a light, gay bouquet with overtones of jasmine, in a classic crystal column."
Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 38, 1936:
"PARFUMS WEIL announces a new perfume with an unusual name, in a bottle of classic simplicity. They call it "Cassandra," and the bottle is a slender Ionic column of hand-cut crystal with gold lettering. The perfume is a floral bouquet."
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"such presentations as Chanel's "Cuir de Russie" (Russian Leather), a modern and typical sports odor adapted for outdoor use; "Cassandra," a floral bouquet presented by Parfums Weil, presented in a slender Ionic column of hand-cut crystal with gold lettering."
A 1936 ad reads
"WEIL'S CASSANDRA: This thrilling new perfume is bottled in a sheer crystal Ionic column and comes in a Grecian box. It's a fresh spicy floral bouquet. It is heavy enough to be chic for dressy occasions and yet light enough to seem fresh and springlike."
Prices given below date from the 1940s advertisements, the prices stayed consistent throughout the decade.
The parfum was available in five sizes:
- 1 dram...$3.50
- 1/5 oz....$5.50
- 1/2 oz...$12.50
- 1 oz...$22.50
- 1 3/4 oz....$37.50
Note: Unless specified, please assume all items are splash bottles.
- 1/5 oz Parfum (square crystal bottle with ball stopper)
- 1/4 oz Parfum (in cylindrical apothecary bottle with disk stopper)
- 1/2 oz Parfum (column flacon)
- 1 oz Parfum (column flacon)
- 1.75 oz Parfum (column flacon)
Cylindrical Baccarat Bottles:
Bottle made by Baccarat. Weil started using Baccarat model #524 as early as 1933. This bottle was also used by other perfumeries: Gabilla, Molyneux, and Jean Desprez.
Other Bottles:
Cassandra was presented in a cologne form starting in 1944 and the scent was described as "deeply sweet, evasive, foreboding." The cologne was a 4 oz size...$4.50.
Stage, 1936:
In 1953, Cassandra was in toilet water form ranging from 2 oz to 14 oz.
"There's something pretty exhilarating about the new fizzing cologne of Parfums Weil called Carbo-nique. It comes in three odors: Cassandra, Bamboo, and Zibeline, and the seltzer-bottle container is returnable for credit on a new one."
In 1953, Cassandra was in toilet water form ranging from 2 oz to 14 oz.
In the world of perfumery during the mid-1930s, Parfums Weil introduced Cassandra, a fragrance that quickly became synonymous with elegance and sophistication. Housed in a slender Ionic column of hand-cut crystal adorned with gold lettering, the presentation of Cassandra was as exquisite as its scent. This floral bouquet perfume captured the imagination of the public and critics alike, noted for its fresh, spicy floral notes that blended seamlessly into a light and feminine composition. Vogue in 1936 described Cassandra as exotic yet fresh, embodying a fatal allure with a feminine touch that hinted at an unspoken destiny.
Harper's Bazaar in 1949 praised Cassandra for its light and gay bouquet, dominated by overtones of jasmine, all elegantly contained within the classic crystal column that defined its presentation. Drug and Cosmetic Industry highlighted its arrival in 1936, emphasizing its unusual name and the simplicity of its iconic bottle, celebrating it as a refined floral bouquet that appealed to sophisticated tastes.
Throughout its presence in advertisements and reviews of the time, Cassandra was celebrated for its versatility. Described as heavy enough for chic, dressy occasions yet light enough to evoke a fresh, springlike aura, it became a staple in the lineup of Parfums Weil's distinguished perfumes, alongside names like Zibeline, Bambou, and Chinchilla. Its association with Greek columns and its elegant presentation in gilt and white enamel echoed its classical inspiration, setting it apart as a symbol of timeless beauty and luxury.
With each mention in publications like The Delineator and Chemist and Druggist, Cassandra cemented its reputation as a fragrance of choice among the discerning elite in both France and America. Its enduring popularity, reflected in advertisements well into the 1940s and 1950s, underscored its status as a fragrance that transcended trends, offering a blend of femininity and allure that captured the hearts of its wearers across generations.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Cassandra, the iconic fragrance by Parfums Weil, continued to captivate perfume enthusiasts well into the late 1960s, despite its eventual discontinuation, the exact date of which remains unclear. The perfume, celebrated for its timeless blend of floral notes and subtle spices, remained available for purchase until approximately 1969, as evidenced by the last known newspaper advertisement dating back to 1967. Throughout its lifespan, Cassandra retained its allure, resonating with those who appreciated its sophisticated and feminine composition. Its legacy endures through nostalgic recollections and the occasional discovery of vintage bottles, serving as a testament to its enduring appeal and the artistry of its creators at Parfums Weil.
No comments:
Post a Comment