Launched in 1928 and trademarked in the United States in 1931, Antilope by Weil emerged during a transformative period in perfumery and fashion. The Weil brothers—Marcel, Jacques, and Alfred—had already established themselves as purveyors of luxury through their fur company, Les Fourrures Weil, founded in Paris in 1892. Known for their impeccable craftsmanship, the Weils catered to a clientele that demanded both refinement and innovation. Their expansion into perfumery in 1927 was a natural progression, as they sought to enhance the sensory experience of their furs with scents that would complement their warmth and texture.
The name Antilope was a fitting choice for this perfume, reflecting both the Weils’ use of antelope skin in their designs and the spirit of agility, grace, and untamed beauty embodied by the animal itself. The word “Antilope” is derived from the French spelling of "antelope," pronounced "ahn-tee-LOHP". It evokes imagery of swift movement across vast landscapes, the soft sleekness of a rare hide, and the inherent elegance of nature. In a fragrance, this name suggests a composition that is fluid yet strong, sophisticated yet free-spirited—qualities that resonated deeply with the modern woman of the late 1920s.
The perfume’s launch coincided with the final years of the Roaring Twenties, an era marked by cultural dynamism, artistic exploration, and a shift toward modernism. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, shedding restrictive corsets in favor of sleek silhouettes, and adopting a more confident, independent persona. Fashion was dominated by designers such as Coco Chanel and Jean Patou, who championed fluid lines and effortless sophistication. Perfume trends followed suit, moving toward more complex, refined compositions. Aldehydic fragrances—such as the groundbreaking Chanel No. 5 (1921)—had already redefined the olfactory landscape, and Antilope followed in this tradition while carving out its own distinctive identity.
Composed by perfumer Claude Fraysse, Antilope is classified as an aldehydic floral woody chypre, a structure that was both contemporary and sophisticated. The fragrance opens with a crisp aldehydic top, lending it a bright, effervescent quality reminiscent of cool air against warm skin. This initial sparkle gives way to a floral heart dominated by jasmine and orange blossom, two notes that bring a timeless femininity and refined sensuality. The base settles into an elegant fusion of precious woods, further enriched by the earthy depth of patchouli and the ethereal softness of ambergris. These elements combine to create a scent that is both tender and tenacious, mirroring the balance between grace and resilience suggested by its name.
For women of the time, Antilope would have embodied an aspirational ideal—sophistication intertwined with the thrill of movement and adventure. Unlike the heavy, opulent fragrances of previous decades, Antilope was fresh yet substantial, designed for a woman who was at once poised and independent. In the broader context of the perfume industry, it aligned with the aldehydic trend while offering a distinctive woody and chypre complexity that set it apart. The fragrance spoke to the evolving role of women in society, capturing both their elegance and their newfound sense of freedom.
Ultimately, Antilope was more than just a perfume; it was a statement—a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, nature and luxury, softness and strength. It encapsulated the spirit of its time while remaining timeless, much like the Weil name itself.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Antilope by Weil is classified as an aldehydic floral woody chypre fragrance for women. It starts out with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart of jasmine and orange blossom, resting on a warm base of precious wood whose aroma is deepened by patchouli and a very finely tender note of ambergris.- Top notes: green notes, aldehydes, spices, Guinea orange, Roman chamomile, Calabrian bergamot, Argentinean tangerine, Italian neroli, Persian galbanum, Syrian acacia farnesiana
- Middle notes: Dutch hyacinth, Florentine iris, Tunisian orange blossom, Nepalese rose, Grasse rose de Mai, French narcissus, Alpine lily of the valley, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Tuscan violet, Grasse jasmine, Hungarian clary sage
- Base notes: Sumatran patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, leather, Atlas cedar, Abyssinian civet, Tibetan musk, Egyptian vetiver, ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, North American sycamore, Moroccan thuja wood, Indonesian macassar wood
Scent Profile:
Antilope by Weil unfurls in a delicate yet arresting introduction that captures the essence of fresh air and the vibrant energy of nature. As you inhale the top notes, the first impression is that of a crisp green freshness, like a dewdrop-laden morning meadow. The lively green notes intertwine with a spark of aldehydes, imparting a shimmering, soapy clean quality, reminiscent of the soft coolness of fresh linens fluttering in a spring breeze. There's a subtle spiciness in the air, almost like a fleeting trace of freshly ground pepper, mingling with the citrusy sweetness of Guinea orange, its essence more tangy and zesty compared to other varieties, with a slightly bitter-sweet undertone. Roman chamomile adds a delicate herbal note—calming and warm, with a touch of apple-like sweetness that smooths the sharp edges of the fragrance.
As the aldehydic top fades, the heart of the fragrance blossoms into a lush floral symphony. The Dutch hyacinth comes forward with its sweet, heady fragrance, almost intoxicating in its intensity. It feels as though a warm, vibrant garden is blooming around you, its richness carried by the ethereal essence of Florentine iris, with its powdery, violet-like scent that evokes elegance and timelessness. Tunisian orange blossom is like a soft, radiant light—its honeyed, slightly green-floral aroma blending with the headiness of Grasse jasmine, one of the most prized varieties in perfumery. The jasmine's sensual, opulent essence embraces the senses, rich and sweet, with a touch of spice.
Nepalese rose and Grasse rose de Mai elevate the floral heart with their nuanced, velvety complexity. The Nepalese rose offers a softer, slightly greener fragrance, while the Grasse rose de Mai, considered one of the finest roses, brings a deep, luxurious sweetness to the bouquet. French narcissus and Alpine lily of the valley add a sharp, crisp contrast, like fresh spring air filling the lungs with their clean, slightly green floral notes, while Nossi-Be ylang ylang adds a lush, creamy richness, exuding sweet, exotic floral tones that feel almost tropical.
This beautifully crafted floral heart gradually settles into the fragrance's deep, warm base notes, grounding the composition with its woody and animalic richness. Sumatran patchouli lends its signature earthy depth—a dark, slightly sweet and smoky scent, dense and mysterious. Unlike other patchoulis, this variety is known for its richer, fuller aroma, adding a sense of luxury and intrigue. The Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy, soft, and rich woodiness, provides a smooth, almost velvety feel, its aroma almost like the warmth of a cashmere blanket.
The leather note, smooth and slightly smoky, conjures the image of vintage luggage—tough yet refined, with an elegant, worn-in quality. Atlas cedar contributes a dry, resinous undertone, like the smell of sun-drenched wood in a forest, crisp and grounding. Meanwhile, the Abyssinian civet adds a touch of animalic musk, its fragrance warm and sensual, evoking a primal, earthy intensity. Tibetan musk brings a colder, cleaner element to the blend, almost ethereal in its sharp, mineral quality, while the Egyptian vetiver deepens the woody base with its smoky, grassy earthiness.
A precious, almost hidden heart of ambergris emerges, its tender sweetness providing a soft, musky warmth that feels like a kiss of the sea breeze on sun-warmed skin. The fragrance closes with a powerful, enduring foundation of Tyrolean oakmoss and North American sycamore, lending a deep, slightly damp forest floor essence, with green, woody, and leathery tones. The Moroccan thuja wood adds a subtle, almost resinous sweetness, while Indonesian macassar wood contributes a luxurious, darkly spicy depth, its rich and complex aroma enhancing the fragrance’s final, lasting impression.
Each note in Antilope by Weil is a carefully crafted element, creating a layered, harmonious experience. This fragrance is both a journey through nature’s varied landscapes and an exploration of complex emotions, blending fresh green and floral notes with deep, mysterious woods and animalic sensuality. As you wear it, Antilope evolves, revealing its multifaceted beauty—like the antelope itself, swift and graceful, yet grounded in the earth’s richness.
Bottles:
Cylindrical bottles made by Baccarat, have disk shaped stoppers without the W. Weil started using Baccarat model #524 as early as 1933. This bottle was also used by other perfumeries: Gabilla, Molyneux, and Jean Desprez.
Baccarat Bottle:
The fancy crystal bottle shown below was made by Baccarat for Weil. Weil started using Baccarat model #817 in 1954.
c1954 ad
c1960 ad
c1961
Fate of the Fragrance:
Antilope by Weil was initially introduced in 1928, but like many other perfumes and products of the time, its production was halted during World War II. As France emerged from the shadow of war in 1945, the fragrance was revived, reintroduced to a country on the cusp of rebuilding. The post-war period was one of hope and renewal, and Antilope was relaunched as the “perfume of the beloved woman.” This title was not just a marketing strategy, but a reflection of the era’s yearning for warmth, romance, and the return to a sense of normalcy and elegance. In the wake of such hardship, women sought out fragrances that evoked intimacy, femininity, and sensuality—qualities Antilope embodied beautifully.
The reemergence of Antilope was not only symbolic of France's resurgence but also marked a shift in the perfume world. When the fragrance first debuted in the United States in 1931, it faced challenges in winning over American women. Its rich, woody, and somewhat masculine character was perceived as too strong, too bold for the typical American scent profile of the time, which favored lighter, more floral or citrus-based fragrances. However, the post-war market was more receptive to deeper, complex scents that conveyed sophistication and strength, and Antilope’s revival came at the perfect moment.
In 1948, to align more closely with the evolving tastes of consumers, Antilope underwent a reformulation under the guidance of Hubert Fraysse. The goal was to soften the fragrance’s initially perceived masculinity and enhance its appeal to a broader audience of women. The result was a more refined, balanced version of the original—one that retained its woody depth but incorporated a greater emphasis on floral and warm, sensual notes. This adjustment helped the perfume connect with the desires of post-war women, who were emerging from the austerity of wartime and eager to embrace a world of elegance and indulgence.
The 1948 reformulation of Antilope by Hubert Fraysse marked a transformative moment for the fragrance, reinventing it as a floral woody chypre. The top notes, dominated by aldehydes, offered an airy, effervescent opening that immediately drew attention. A blend of clary sage, neroli, tangerine, galbanum, and acacia followed, creating an intriguing contrast of fresh greenness, citrus brightness, and slightly herbaceous undertones. These bright, uplifting notes set the stage for the heart of the perfume, where delicate florals began to emerge. Lily of the valley, rose de Mai, ylang ylang, hyacinth, narcissus, and jasmine unfolded together, each adding their own layer of complexity. The jasmine, in particular, lent the fragrance its heady, intoxicating richness, while the rose de Mai and ylang ylang introduced a soft, creamy sensuality.
Resting on this floral bouquet was a chypre base that anchored the fragrance with warmth and depth. Oakmoss, ambergris, and musk provided a subtle, earthy foundation, while civet added a touch of animalic allure. Sandalwood rounded out the composition with its creamy, smooth woodiness, enhancing the perfume’s overall elegance and sophistication. This new version of Antilope blended floral lightness with the strength of woody and earthy elements, making it an ideal scent for the modern woman of the post-war era—vibrant, elegant, and multifaceted.
The success of this reformulation was nothing short of remarkable. It quickly became a bestseller, surpassing even Zibeline, which had previously been Parfums Weil’s top-selling fragrance. This achievement was a testament to the power of Antilope’s refined composition and the changing tastes of women in the post-war world. Antilope was no longer a fragrance solely for the bold and daring; it had evolved into a fragrance that embraced the complexity and subtlety of the modern woman.
In 1949, the U.S. Patent Office acknowledged Antilope’s status as a trademarked fragrance with the publication of its official registration in the gazette. The patent covered not only the perfume but also associated products, including toilet waters, rouge, lipstick, and face cream, solidifying Antilope as a versatile luxury brand. By this point, the fragrance had found its place in the American market, now redefined as a symbol of femininity, sophistication, and strength. Antilope had evolved from a fragrance that was once too bold into one that captured the essence of the era’s glamorous, yet resilient, woman.
By 1950, Antilope had firmly established its identity, with L'Amour de l'art magazine describing it as a fragrance that harmoniously blended jasmine, rose, and orange blossom over a rare woody accord. The fragrance was noted for its versatility, complementing both blonde and red hair with its delicate yet vibrant character. It was described as full of life, lingering beautifully without ever overwhelming the senses—a perfect reflection of the post-war spirit of grace, resilience, and understated luxury.
In 1953, Combat magazine further emphasized Antilope’s powerful presence with its captivating blend of jasmine, patchouli, and orange blossom, anchored by a base of precious woods. The fragrance was described as tender yet passionate, evoking the drama of an opera box and a sense of transcendence. The resinous qualities of thuja, pale sycamore, and rare Macassar ebony created an ethereal, dreamlike forest atmosphere, simultaneously grounded in elegance while teasing with sensual whispers. This poetic description underscored Antilope’s ability to convey both the timeless allure of the woods and the ephemeral beauty of delicate florals—an evocative scent that lingered in the air and in memory, much like the fleeting moments of beauty and romance it sought to capture.
By the mid-1950s, Antilope had established itself as an iconic fragrance, frequently mentioned in high-end publications that captured the pulse of luxury and sophistication. In Woman's Guide to Europe (1954), the perfume was specifically recommended for blondes or those with Titian-red hair, suggesting that Antilope’s delicate balance of fresh florals and deep woody notes was particularly flattering for those with fair or fiery locks. This strategic association with a specific hair color reflected the growing trend in personalized, tailored fragrance recommendations based on individual features like hair color and skin tone.
Two years later, in The New Yorker (1956), Antilope was again highlighted as part of the luxury bracket alongside other elite perfumes such as Revillon’s Carnet de Bal and Weil’s own Zibeline. It was noted for its prestigious image, with the mention of a new purse-size cut-glass bottle fitted with a silver-metal top for spraying—a nod to the modern, refined aesthetic that women of the time craved. This design innovation reflected not only the allure of the perfume but also the growing popularity of functional yet stylish perfume packaging that could be carried effortlessly in handbags.
In Harper's Bazaar (1956), Antilope was described as “crisp and woodsy,” with a suggestion that it was the perfect complement to luxurious furs. The fragrance’s association with fur echoed the legacy of Weil’s roots in fur fashion, reinforcing the idea that Antilope was a scent designed to enhance the experience of wearing the finest garments. With a price tag of $27.50 for two ounces, it signified the exclusivity and refinement of the fragrance, solidifying its status among the upper echelons of society.
In 1965, Antilope reached a new level of prominence when it was chosen by the French Minister of Tourism to be offered as a welcome gift to foreign tourists. As part of the National Campaign for Welcome and Friendliness, 150,000 bottles of Antilope were distributed at Orly Airport, a symbol of French hospitality and luxury. This widespread gifting strategy not only promoted the perfume but also introduced Antilope to an international audience, further cementing its status as a quintessential French fragrance.
By 1968, Antilope had become a staple in luxury bath and body products. Country Fair magazine praised the fragrance for its match with Satin Antilope, an all-over after-bath treatment. The combination of Antilope’s fragrance with the satin-softening bath line elevated the perfume's appeal, encouraging women to indulge in a full sensory experience that extended beyond just the perfume itself. Its popularity only grew in the following years, and by 1969, it was the most requested perfume at Weil, signifying its enduring allure and widespread admiration among a loyal customer base. This success reflected not only the continued appeal of Antilope but also the growing trend of personal luxury, where scent was integrated into daily rituals of beauty and sophistication.
In more recent years, Antilope has undergone several reformulations, leading to a shift in how the fragrance is perceived by modern audiences. While the perfume was once celebrated for its harmonious blend of aldehydes, floral heart notes, and rich woody base, many reviewers and perfume enthusiasts now express disappointment that the newer versions do not capture the same depth and elegance as the original formulation. This ongoing change reflects the challenges of maintaining a perfume's original essence while adapting to contemporary preferences and production limitations. The modern iterations of Antilope are often described as lacking the refinement and complexity that made the fragrance a beloved classic in the mid-20th century.
- Top notes: aldehydes, spice note, citrus oils
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, orris, lily of the valley, violet
- Base notes: cedar, vetiver, leather, musk, amber
The current formulation of Antilope still begins with its familiar aldehydic top, a bright, soapy burst that is simultaneously fresh and sparkling. These aldehydes, combined with a subtle spice note and citrus oils, create a crisp, invigorating opening. However, some find that the aldehydic facet now dominates more than it did in the original, overshadowing the nuanced balance of other ingredients. The middle notes of jasmine, rose, orris, lily of the valley, and violet retain their classic floral heart, though the richness of these blooms may feel somewhat muted in comparison to the lush, opulent florals that once defined the fragrance. The iris note, in particular, which was once powdery and elegant, is now perceived as less refined, with the lily of the valley adding a touch of sweetness rather than the complex depth it once did.
At the base, Antilope continues to rest on its signature woody foundation, with cedar and vetiver offering a dry, earthy grounding. The leather note, once rich and full-bodied, may now feel lighter and less prominent, allowing the musk and amber to create a more subdued warmth that doesn't quite reach the depth and sensuality of its predecessor. Though these base notes still offer an inviting, comforting finish, the absence of the original's intensity and complexity has left many feeling that the fragrance no longer evokes the same luxurious, timeless quality. As a result, the newer versions of Antilope have sparked debate among fragrance lovers, with many lamenting the loss of the bold, sophisticated character that made the original such a standout in the perfume world.
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